Social media has a way of making the banal seem exciting and original. An example would be exfoliation, which consists of removing dead cells from the epidermis. Anyone who has browsed TikTok recently can be convinced that this traditional skin treatment method can rejuvenate even the most aged skin, like our aging epidermis.

However, a Harvard dermatologist says that’s asking too much.

“I don’t think exfoliation is going to fix anyone’s wrinkles,” says Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center interim chair of dermatology Rachel Reynolds, MD. Exfoliation has certain advantages, but if you do not do it carefully or use instruments or chemicals that your skin cannot tolerate, it can also irritate and inflame the skin.

How do you exfoliate?
Exfoliation can be done mechanically or chemically. Each person has unique benefits.

Mechanical exfoliation, also known as physical exfoliation, involves physically removing dead skin cells with a brush, loofah, or scrub containing abrasive particles. “Mechanical exfoliation can improve skin’s glow by removing a dead layer of skin that can make it look dull,” explains Dr. Reynolds. “And it can help unclog pores a little, which can reduce some types of acne.”

Chemical peels liquefy dead skin cells by using chemicals, usually salicylic acid or alpha and beta-hydroxy acids. “The chemical exfoliant works at a micro level to help dissolve excess skin cells and reduce uneven pigmentation that sits on the skin’s surface,” he continues. “They also restore skin’s glow, improve acne, and give skin a little more glow.”

Why do skin care products so often encourage exfoliation?
According to Dr. Reynolds, there are probably hundreds of commercially available skin care products that are marketed as exfoliants, including face masks, cleansers, and body washes. However, he wonders why so many different products highlight this aspect so strongly.

“It is advantageous for a cosmetics company to sell consumers more products from a skin care line,” he says. “But buyer beware, because this is a completely unregulated market and cosmetics companies can make claims that do not need to be substantiated by real clinical trials.”

Does our skin need to be exfoliated?
No. “It’s okay if you don’t exfoliate; you’re just walking around with bumpy or slightly dry skin, which doesn’t matter except for cosmetic reasons,” explains Dr. Reynolds.

“No one has to exfoliate, but it can be helpful to exfoliate your arms and legs,” she continues. “As we age, these areas become drier than other parts of the body, and people notice that they get a lot more peeling skin and an almost fish-scale appearance.”

This behavior could indicate keratosis pilaris, a common but benign skin condition that causes rough, bumpy “chicken skin” on the thighs and upper arms. However, that may not be the case. Physical exfoliants are a great starting point because, she says, keratosis pilaris affects areas of skin that are tougher than the face. Alternatively, you can use a cleanser or lotion that contains a chemical exfoliant. Both types can improve the appearance and texture of the skin.

Does exfoliation cause damage to the skin?
Yes. Depending on a number of variables, chemical or physical exfoliation methods can cause more harm than good. Any exfoliant has a greater potential to irritate or inflame sensitive skin. Plus, going any further could lead to irritating contact dermatitis, which can appear red, angry, and cracked. This can happen by rubbing too vigorously or using a solution with higher acid concentrations.

“Physical exfoliation done too harshly can also aggravate inflammatory acne and make it worse,” adds Dr. Reynolds. “Plus, exfoliating can make you more prone to sunburn.”

What exfoliation methods are the safest?
Dr. Reynolds prefers chemical exfoliants over their physical counterparts. “Sometimes the abrasives in those apricot scrubs, for example, can go too far, aggravating the skin and creating inflammation,” he explains.

It also provides the following additional tips on safe exfoliation:

If this is your first time exfoliating, see how well your skin reacts to a light physical exfoliation with a simple wipe.

Then, experiment with gentler chemical exfoliants, such as salicylic acid or hydroxy acid, in small amounts. If necessary, increase to stronger concentrations.

Consider getting a chemical peel at a dermatologist’s clinic if you want to get rid of difficult skin problems like comedonal acne, which are small flesh-colored bumps often found on the chin or forehead, or melasma, which are facial blemishes. brown.

Avoid exfoliating daily. Dr. Reynolds advises doing this no more than two or three times a week. “Your skin needs to repair itself between exfoliation episodes.”