The Kaunda suit has in recent years become a preferred garment for African celebrities, elders and politicians, including one particularly prominent convert – Kenyan President William Ruto.

A single-breasted safari jacket with short or long sleeves and patch pockets – often worn with matching trousers – was originally popularized in the 1960s by Kenneth Kaunda, Zambia’s first post-colonial president.

But the Kaunda suit was banned from the Kenyan parliament this week, along with other forms of traditional African clothing and form-fitting clothing for women. The Kenyan Parliament Speaker ruled that such clothing violated the parliamentary dress code, which largely corresponds to modern Western work attire.

A fashion trend like the Kaunda suit “does not reflect the seriousness of the work of the House of Representatives and its committees,” said Moses Wetangula, the speaker of Parliament, in a speech on Tuesday.

The proper clothing for men entering the halls of Parliament is “a coat, collar, tie, long-sleeved shirt, long trousers, socks and shoes or a service uniform”.

The move caused an outcry Many on social media questioned why proud African attire was banned in an African government building in favor of suits and ties associated with colonial powers.

“In fact, colonialism is still deeply embedded in our minds,” said Abdullahi Halakhe, a Kenyan human rights activist. said in a post in Swahili on X, formerly Twitter. He added a link to a story with a photo of the Speaker of Parliament wearing the white wig and gown that are a holdover from the British colonial era.

The flap comes as Afrocentric fashion is gaining enormous importance on the continent and beyond – on catwalks and cinema screens and from buyers interested in Black culture and style.

The Kenyan speaker also banned hats and caps in parliament and said women should wear business, formal or smart casual attire with skirts and dresses below the knee. Sleeveless blouses are banned, he added. The rules apply to guests and journalists visiting parliament, as well as politicians.

“I have given these instructions with awareness of the fact that they may cause discomfort to some of you,” said Mr. Wetangula, 67. “Discomfort, however, is necessary for the comfort and safety of members and good order.”

One of the edict’s most prominent targets didn’t seem to be listening.

A day after the announcement in Parliament, President Ruto – who publicly wore his first Kaunda suit as president in June this year – met the CEO of NBA Africa while wearing one brown Kaunda suit. On Thursday he took part in a government event carry a sky blue version. He attracted attention when he wore a pink Kaunda suit.

Many modern African leaders have shown that voters value politicians who are willing to openly embrace their cultural heritage and traditional dress. Nelson Mandela as President of South AfricaIt bore his signature “Madiba” shirts in bold, while former Nigerian president Good luck, Jonathan often wore a wide-brimmed fedora-style hat popular with the tribal chiefs of his region.

In Rwanda, President Paul Kagame wears clothes from Rwandan designers Promote the “Made in Rwanda” campaign.

Mister. Kaunda of Zambia, who ruled his South African country from 1964 to 1991, adopted the short-sleeved suit as a symbol of African freedom and independence. The style had early roots in Australia and strong similarities to a Chinese silhouette popularized by Chairman Mao.

When Mr. Wetangula, the Kenyan parliament speaker, banned the Kaunda suits, he called them “Mao Zedong coats.”

The speaker is a former senator who served as secretary of state a decade ago until he resigned amid allegations of corruption. He was an ally of Mr Ruto, 56, a former vice president who rose to fame as a shrewd politician and businessman. He Taking office in September last year, after that win a close election.

The dispute over the dress code in Parliament is taking place against the backdrop of increasing publicity Anger and protests over his government’s performanceespecially because of the rising costs of food and fuel and rising taxes.

Mr Ruto’s tailor, Ashok Sunny, said the President’s penchant for Kaunda suits was based on a desire to promote local manufacturing and designers.

“It shows that we don’t have to wear suits all day. “We can wear the African cut that represents the African look,” Mr. Sunny said said in an interview this year with TV47 in Kenya. He added: “Most of the time they call it the dictator look because most old dictators used to like the Kaunda suit.”

It’s not the first time fashion decisions have thrown the Kenyan parliament into turmoil.

Mike Sonko, a former senator and governor of Nairobi, was expelled from parliament in 2011 with sunglasses and ear studs. Mr Sonko, a flamboyant politician known for his lavish lifestyle, condemned the move at the time, saying he was dressing like the country’s youth.