Schalk-Willem Joubert, Pascal Oddo, and Petri Venter.
- Taaibosch on the slopes of Helderberg on the legendary Cordoba farm has just released its much-lauded 2020 vintage, only the third in their production.
- And with it, the announcement that they’ve decommissioned their 2023 vintage due to catastrophic rainfall during flowering.
- While decommissioning a vintage of a one-wine brand has severe financial implications, it also represents the very serious nature of their production in a bid to produce the Cheval Blanc of the Helderberg.
“Long-term is not 15 years for me; it’s the next generation,” said winemaker Schalk-Willem Joubert.
At a recent vertical tasting of the three vintages of Taaibosch, Joubert announced the decommissioning of their 2023 vintage amid catastrophic rainfall during flowering season. Setting the tone for many winemakers who experienced one of the wettest Cape vintages in history last year.
While decommissioning a vintage of a one-wine brand has severe financial implications, the decision reflects the very serious nature of their production in a bid to produce (every year) what Michael Fridjhon calls the Cheval Blanc of the Helderberg.
The Cordoba Crescendo 2003, where it all started, the Cheval Blanc of the Helderberg.
The Taaibosch Vertical, 2018, 2019, and 2020.
I visited Taaibosch, set on the old Cordoba farm on the Helderberg last year, which, with the sizeable investment of the French Oddo family, sent ripples through the SA wine industry with the release of their maiden 2018 vintage. Something Greg Sherwood MW called “An iconic blockbuster of the future.” Inspired by the First Growth, Right Bank, Bordeaux producer Cheval Blanc, with a focus on Cabernet Franc, supported by Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The comparison implies grand aspirations, though Schalk explains that the site shines through and that this slope on the Helderberg cannot help but produce sheer class. Something they proved with the inclusion of the original Cordoba Crescendo 2003, also present at the recent tasting, as a representation of the DNA of the site and, by extension, its longevity.
Its DNA being natural acidity (one of the critical things winemakers look for and one of the first things to go in truly hot vintages), length, linearity, consistency in flavour, and a very fine tannin structure. All of this conspiring to produce a grand Cape classic made not to be enjoyed immediately but in the very essence of fine wine, to be laid down and left to develop and enjoyed as a true representation of site and vintage, offering up a storyline of sorts.
Thus, the ability to decommission a naturally difficult vintage in order not to tarnish the grand track record of the first three vintages is a privilege and proof that what they’re building here is a proud Cape brand to compete on an international stage. After all, Schalk-Willem is in the business of brand building as the long-time winemaker at Rupert & Rothschild, and now his trio of endeavours with the Oddo Family in Stellenbosch.
A Taaibosch Vertical Tasting.
Read our previous story on Taaibosch, Pink Valley, and Le Chant in the Polkadraai.
FEATURE | ‘I think you’re overthinking it’: The simplicity of Taaibosch’s success
They recently released their 2020 vintage, which Michael Fridjhon described as slightly softer than the 2018 and 2019 vintages, not in a bad way, but with more of a focus on Merlot that softens the mouthfeel. This could detract from the wine’s ability to develop over time, but at this level of precision, it doesn’t do any notable damage other than suggesting that you enjoy it sooner. Each vintage, up to date, has been a study in site and class; Schalk says he’d have preferred to release the 2020 before the 2019, given that year’s beauty and linearity.
The 2019 is a perfectly made wine with so much black fruit and no heat. It is the first vintage after the drought, and one can almost taste the relief in the vines. Michael Fridjhon commented that in 10 years’ time, Bordeaux will wonder how they did it. Though Schalk mentioned that it is the yet-to-be-released 2021 vintage he feels will be his finest to date, but let’s wait for the release.
Michael Fridjhon, Christian Eedes, Jean-Vincent Ridon, and Schalk-Willem deliberating.
A close-up of Helderberg from Taaibosch.
The pricing of these wines, with the 2018 released at R300 and the 2020 now at R415 a bottle, remains one of the most accessible price points at this level of production and firmly cements the brand as one of South Africa’s top contenders for international recognition while remaining accessible to a local market. Given their level of precision, the decommissioning of 2023 merely cements their mission, and I’d suggest you stock up.
Shop the latest (2020) vintage here.
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